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Chimney and fireplace guide for Northshore homeowners

Chimney safety

How a Northshore chimney stays safe, season after season

A chimney does two dangerous jobs every time you light a fire: it carries away heat and it carries away gas. This guide covers what makes it fail in our climate and what you can do about it.

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Two risks, one system

Almost every chimney problem ends in one of two places: fire, when deposits in the flue ignite or heat reaches framing it should never touch, or carbon monoxide, when exhaust that should leave through the top finds its way into the house. Going by the national numbers the Washington State Fire Marshal quotes, in 2024 more than three in four heating fires in residential buildings traced back to the chimney, its flue or the fuel-burning appliance.

Our part of the lake adds its own pressure. Kirkland lines the lake's eastern edge, Kenmore wraps its northern tip, and Bothell and Woodinville follow the Sammamish River inland. All four get the same long wet season, occasional snow in December and January, and a fault map that geologists take seriously. None of that makes a chimney unsafe by itself. It just means the yearly check does more work here.

Chimney inspection with a flue camera

The yearly baseline

Once a year, somebody should look inside

Under NFPA 211, the fire-safety standard that governs these systems, every chimney is due a yearly check of its structure, its deposits and its clearances. The Chimney Safety Institute of America recommends doing that Level 1 inspection together with a sweep. It sounds like routine, and it is, which is exactly why it works: small cracks and early buildup get caught while the fix is cheap.

A proper chimney inspection puts a camera where a flashlight cannot reach. Late summer, before the rain returns in October, is the easiest time to get it done.

  • Flue tiles or liner checked for cracks, gaps and deposits
  • Someone up on the roof, looking at crown, cap and flashing from arm's length
  • Mortar joints and brick faces checked for erosion and flaking
  • A photo of every finding, so the report shows you what we saw
Creosote removal from a chimney flue

Fuel in the flue

Creosote, and why the shiny kind is the worst

Smoke cools as it climbs, and what condenses on the flue walls is creosote. Wet wood and slow, smoldering fires make more of it. Every layer is fuel, and a chimney fire burning through that fuel can run hot enough to split clay tiles and scorch nearby framing.

Washington's rules help here too: only dry, seasoned firewood or manufactured logs may be burned, never garbage, treated lumber or plastic. A yearly chimney sweep handles the first two stages; the glazed third stage calls for creosote removal with dedicated treatment.

  • First stage: dry, dusty soot that a brush lifts off
  • Second stage: crunchy black flakes clinging to the flue walls
  • Third stage: a glassy, tar-like coat that needs more than a brush

Carbon monoxide gives no warning

It has no smell and no color. Wood, gas, pellets and oil all produce it, and a blocked or broken flue can send it back indoors. An open flue, a sound liner and a CO alarm on each floor are what stand between it and you.

Gas fireplace and venting service →

More on carbon monoxide

A chimney can serve more than the fireplace: in many houses a furnace or water heater vents into a flue of its own inside the same masonry. When all of it drafts properly, the exhaust rises and leaves. Trouble starts when something changes the path: a bird's nest in a capless flue, a liner joint that has separated, creosote narrowing the opening, or a gas insert added to a flue that was never sized for it. Then combustion gas can linger in the firebox or seep into a wall cavity and reach the bedrooms. A liner matched to the appliance, a cap to keep animals out, and a working alarm near every sleeping area are the simple answers. If the alarm sounds, get everyone outside first and ask questions later.

Chimney crown repair and repointing

The wet half of the year

What seven months of rain does to brick

Brick and mortar are porous. Here they soak for more than half the year, and November is the rainiest month of all. The cool season runs from mid-November to the start of March, and the snowy stretch falls between about December 11 and January 22. Water that soaked in during the fall freezes on those cold nights and forces the masonry apart, a little more every winter.

Found early, that damage is a masonry repair: a new crown, a few courses repointed. A breathable waterproofing treatment afterward keeps the brick from drinking in the next season's rain while still letting it dry out.

  • Brick faces that flake or pop off after a freeze (spalling)
  • Hairline splits in the crown, each one a path for rain into the stack
  • Mortar joints that feel sandy or sit deeper than the brick
  • White mineral streaks (efflorescence) showing where water has been moving

After the ground shakes

Brick chimneys and earthquakes

A tall stack of brick is the first part of a house to crack in a quake. After the 2001 Nisqually earthquake, USGS researchers walked block by block through the greater metro area, looked at about 60,000 chimneys and counted 1,556 damaged. They also noted that unreinforced brick chimneys in this region had already been damaged in the 1949 and 1965 earthquakes. Closer to home, a 1996 USGS study found that the southern Whidbey Island fault, which runs southeast toward Woodinville, should be considered capable of large earthquakes. If you felt shaking, have the chimney looked at before the next fire: loose bricks at the roofline and cracked flue tiles are both easy to miss, and a chimney repair is far simpler before a stack starts to lean.

Stainless steel chimney liner being installed

Inside the masonry

The liner keeps the heat off your framing

Washington's residential code makes a liner mandatory in a masonry chimney (clay flue tile, a listed liner system or other materials the code approves) and must keep an air gap from nearby combustibles. Much of our housing dates from the 1960s through the 1980s: the Census puts about 37% of Kirkland's homes in the 1960s and 1970s alone. Clay tiles that old can crack from age, from moisture, and above all from a chimney fire.

A cracked or missing liner is not cosmetic. When a camera turns one up, chimney relining puts back both the heat barrier and a proper draft, using stainless pipe matched to the appliance.

  • Holds flue gases inside the chimney and out of the wall cavities
  • Keeps fire heat away from the wood around the masonry
  • Sized to the stove, insert or fireplace so the draft stays strong
Stainless steel chimney cap installation

Where the chimney meets the weather

Cap, flashing and the roof around them

An uncapped flue collects rain all winter and invites birds to nest in spring. A chimney cap stops both. If it carries a spark arrestor screen, the code dictates how fine the mesh is and insists you can lift it off to clean it. At the roofline, flashing is the seal that tired roofs lose first, and the code wants a cricket behind a chimney more than 30 inches across, measured along the ridge, when the chimney stops short of it.

Moss plays its part too. Oregon State University Extension calls roof moss inevitable in the moist Pacific Northwest and notes that it traps debris and moisture; its advice also rules out zinc sulfate wherever copper flashing is present, since the zinc eats the copper.

  • A cap blocks rain, leaves and animals, and can serve as a spark arrestor
  • Flashing seals the joint where brick meets shingles
  • Broad chimneys set below the ridge get a cricket behind them to part the runoff
  • Moss near the chimney holds water against the roof for weeks

Who does what

Your side of the job, and ours

Good habits between visits prevent a lot. The flue, the roof and anything that carries gas are different: that work needs training, equipment and a harness.

Things you can handle

  • Burn only dry, seasoned wood or manufactured logs
  • Open the damper before lighting and check it again once the fire catches
  • Let ashes cool in a metal can outdoors, well away from the house
  • Test smoke and CO alarms when the clocks change
  • Check the burn ban status before every fire from fall to spring

Work to hand over

  • Brushing the flue and removing glazed creosote
  • Anything done from the roof, cap and crown included
  • Assessing or replacing a flue liner
  • Rebuilding brick, mortar joints or flashing
  • Any gas line, burner or vent connection

A September routine

Five steps before the first fire of fall

Chimney sweep cleaning a rooftop flue
  1. Get the inspection on the calendar

    August and September leave time to schedule any repair before the wet season starts around October 9.

  2. Sweep what last winter left

    A clean flue drafts better and holds nothing that can catch fire on the first cold evening.

  3. Check the top of the chimney

    Cap, crown and flashing take the rain first. Replacing a missing cap is quicker than drying out a damp flue.

  4. Replace alarm batteries

    Every smoke and CO alarm, on each floor and near every bedroom, tested after the new batteries go in.

  5. Stack wood that has had time to dry

    Split, covered and seasoned. Green or rain-soaked logs smolder and coat the flue far faster.

Keep reading

Other guides for Northshore homeowners

Short articles on burn bans, gas inserts, relining and repair decisions, written for the houses and the weather of Kirkland, Bothell, Woodinville and Kenmore.

Questions

What homeowners ask us about chimney safety

Is a yearly chimney inspection really necessary?
Yes. Under NFPA 211 a chimney, fireplace or vent gets a yearly look, and the State Fire Marshal's own checklist says much the same: a pro should check and clean it every year, and a cap should sit on top. The failures that start fires or leak gas, a split flue tile or a crown letting water in, are the ones you cannot see from the hearth.
How do I know creosote is building up in my flue?
Look and smell. A tarry, campfire odor that hangs in the room, black flakes dropping onto the grate, or a fire that smokes more than it used to all point to deposits narrowing the flue. Creosote goes from loose soot to crusty flakes to a hard, shiny coat, and the shiny stage is the hardest to remove and the most dangerous to leave.
Does a gas fireplace need the same attention as a wood one?
It needs attention of a different kind. Gas burns cleaner, so there is little creosote, but the vent still has to carry carbon monoxide outside, and nests, loose vent sections or a corroded liner can stop that. A yearly look at the burner, the pilot and the venting, along with a working CO alarm, covers the real risk.
Why does rain matter so much for a chimney around here?
Because it lasts. Kirkland's wet season, as WeatherSpark measures it, starts around October 9 and ending near May 1, and November brings the most, roughly 8.2 inches. Brick and mortar absorb that water, and when December brings a freeze or January brings snow, the water trapped in the joints expands and pushes them apart.
After a quake, is a chimney check worth it?
Yes, even a mild one. Brick chimneys are usually the first thing an earthquake breaks: the USGS survey after Nisqually in 2001 is the local proof, and unreinforced brick stacks here had already failed in the 1949 and 1965 quakes. Cracks at the roofline or inside the flue do not always show from the yard.
Can I still use my fireplace during a burn ban?
Usually not. A Stage 1 notice from the regional Clean Air Agency rules out open wood fireplaces plus uncertified stoves and inserts; Stage 2 adds the certified wood-burners and pellet stoves as well. Households that rely on wood as their sole adequate heat can apply for an exemption in advance, and even they must not make visible smoke.

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